Seasonal Bird News

Miscellaneous Bird News

Once in a while as I am considering subjects to write about for our blog I run out of inspiration.  So, this week I’ve decided to try something different and touch on a number of “odds and ends”.  A mixed bag if you will of current bird issues to ornithological vocabulary. 

Finches with Eye Disease

We’ve been seeing some evidence of House Finches with an eye disease known as Mycoplasmal conjunctivitis, or House Finch eye disease.  And just yesterday a customer inquired about a bird that seemed sick.  It did not move away as she approached, as if it was not really aware of her presence.  The bird turned out to be a sick House Finch.  We had one behind the store the other day that was afflicted with the disease.  We hear reports and see evidence of this every year that range from sparse to wide-spread.  
Birds infected with House Finch eye disease have red, swollen, runny, or crusty eyes. In extreme cases the eyes become swollen shut and the bird becomes blind. House Finch eye disease is caused by the bacterium Mycoplasma gallisepticum. This bacterium has long been known as a pathogen of domestic turkeys and chickens, but it has been observed in House Finches since 1994. The disease has affected several other species, including American Goldfinch, Evening Grosbeak, and Purple Finch
You might observe an infected bird sitting quietly in your yard, clumsily scratching an eye against its foot or a perch. While some infected birds recover, many die from starvation, exposure, or predation. If you’re a songbird it’s impossible to survive if you can’t see.
When birds are concentrated in a small area like at a birdfeeder the risk of a disease spreading within that population increases.

What To Do
If you detect a sick finch at your feeders the standard procedure is to take down your feeders for a few days to a week and give them a very thorough cleaning.  Cleaning your feeders is always a good idea and is recommended it be done on a regular basis.  Clorox wipes are very handy to give your feeder a quick clean particularly around the feeding ports.

Altricial vs Precocial

Almost all of us have seen baby songbirds in a nest.  We know they are completely dependent on the adults to keep them warm as they are featherless for the first few days and to bring them food while in the nest developing.  They are completely helpless and mostly immobile.  And the adults continue to feed them for weeks even after they have fledged. This is referred to as altricial.  Altricial birds include herons, hawks, owls, and most songbirds.
Precocial means young are capable of a high degree of independent activity immediately after hatching. Precocial young typically can move about, have their eyes open and will be covered in down at hatching. They are generally able to walk away from the nest as soon as they have dried off.  They will also begin searching for their own food. Examples of precocial birds include most duck species, Wild Turkey, Quail, Killdeer and Canada geese.

Have you seen them?  I’ve seen several in the past few weeks.  I’m referring to bald cardinals.

In mid to late summer it’s not uncommon to see Northern Cardinals, and sometimes, Blue jays, completely void of head feathers.  This odd appearance can sometimes be attributed to the summer molt, or more likely from feather mites. 
Most bald-headed-bird reports occur in summer and fall, which are typical molting times. According to the Cornell Lab of Ornithology many of these strange-looking birds may be juveniles undergoing their first pre-basic molt, which produces the first winter adult plumage. For some unknown reason, the bald birds may have dropped all of their head feathers at once. Staggered feather loss and replacement is the normal pattern.
It is possible that the baldness is caused by feather mites, or lice. A mite infection is the likely explanation for the loss of head feathers only.  After all, the head is the one place a bird would not be able to preen effectively to control mites.    Feather mites are tiny arthropods, whose feeding destroys feather shafts.  This is not a condition the affected bird will not recover from.
But why does it seem to affect primarily Cardinals and Blue jays?  Do other songbirds have effective methods of removing these parasites from their heads?  We’re just not sure.

Interesting Behaviors of Birds

Wood Thrush Shop employee, Eli Haislip, recently photographed an adult Red-bellied woodpecker feeding a juvenile Northern Flicker.  Over the course of a few days he witnessed the Flicker following the Red-bellied woodpecker and begging for food.  So, is this an example of hybridization, where two different but compatible species mate, or an example of a Flicker laying an egg in the Red-bellied’s nest?  I looked for information regarding hybridization among songbirds and there are examples ranging from rare to common.  Some examples of common hybridization include Baltimore and Bullock’s Oriole and Indigo Bunting and Lazuli Bunting.  Examples of rare hybridization include Blue jay and Stellar’s jay and Eastern Bluebird and Mountain Bluebird. This juvenile seems to possess all the field marks of a Northern Flicker and none of the Red-bellied woodpecker but we may just have to settle for uncertainty.

Adaptable Bluebirds

I’ve always tried to point out to people that Eastern Bluebirds are not nearly as choosy about nest-sites as they have been portrayed.  If Bluebirds really needed such specifics in the location of a nest-site they probably would have been extinct by now.  And there’s nothing natural about a birdhouse but they, as well as other species, have adapted to using them because they “represent” something they would find in nature.  I have seen Bluebird nests in large horizontal pipes, a hole in a basketball goal pole, and even in a stack of cement foundation blocks.  But a new one was presented to me by a customer recently.  A pair of Bluebirds used the abandoned nest of a Robin, Phoebe, or Barn Swallow.  It was hard to see detail in the picture but the nest was built of mud and plant material on a ledge against the wall of the house under an eve.  The Bluebirds raised an undetermined number of young in this nest.  

The Hummingbird Wave is Coming

Soon hummingbirds will ramp up their interest in feeders and the action will be fast and furious.  August through mid-September is peak time for us to see hummingbirds at feeders.  Based on frequently asked questions at the store there's a lot of confusion surrounding Ruby-throated hummingbirds and the first few months they are here.  It is true Ruby-throated hummingbirds begin migrating through and into TN as early as mid-March.  This year the first reported sighting by a customer was March 30.  My first sighting was April 6th.  By the way, I've recorded first of spring (FOS) hummingbird sightings for over 20 years and it's always between April 3 and April 12.  And the first has always been an adult male. 

Occasionally we here a customer say "I have all kinds of different hummingbirds" when in fact they really only have one kind, the Ruby-throated hummingbird.  Only the adult male has the bright red throat while both sexes have an iridescent green back.  Adult females and juvenile's look very much alike but will vary somewhat in plumage.    

Although all Tennessee summer resident hummingbirds are here by mid-May, most people will see very little of them, and activity at feeders will be infrequent and minimal until at least early to mid-July when there is a sudden surge.

It is thought by many the reason for this sudden surge is they have just "come back" from where they've been.   Actually, it is that the summer resident hummingbirds have concluded raising one or even two broods of offspring and are ready to begin taking advantage of the free nectar in the feeders you've provided. Also, the added activity is indicative of recently fledged hummingbirds beginning to understand and visit feeders.  Then as we move into August hummingbirds that have been north of us, as far as Canada, will begin their migration south and stop at feeders along the way.  

It must be remembered hummingbirds don't travel all the way from central and south America because there are hummingbird feeders here.  They DO NOT NEED the feeders but will take advantage of them when they are ready.  Hummingbirds have been migrating here for thousands of years to breed and to take advantage of the abundance of insects, which is their primary food source.  They would come here even if hummingbird feeders did not exist.

Since hummingbirds feed on small insects there is an alternative to offering only nectar. Try placing some fruit in a mesh sack or container with holes, and hang it near your hummingbird feeder.  The fruit will draw fruit flies which the hummingbirds will readily devour.  It is quite interesting to see a hummingbird dart its specialized tongue out to snag the flies. Last year we introduced a new feeder called the Humm-Bug that is designed to hold fruit and draw fruit flies.  

Aspects high view Hummingbird feeders are some of our favorite feeders. They are easy to clean, fill, and come with a built in ant moat. The high view refers to the new perch design which is raised up compared to older models. This helps keep the feeder from obscuring the bird while perching.

Hummzinger high view excel holds 16oz and has 6 ports.

Hummzinger high view feeders come in three different sizes. 8oz, 12oz, and 16oz.

Hummzinger high view feeders come in three different sizes. 8oz, 12oz, and 16oz.

Humzinger high view mini holds 8oz and has three ports.

Humzinger high view mini holds 8oz and has three ports.

Humzinger high view holds 12oz and has four ports.

Humzinger high view holds 12oz and has four ports.

Hummingbird Nectar

A question frequently asked at The Wood Thrush Shop is “what nectar is best for hummingbirds”? 

The best nectar you can offer hummingbirds is a simple 1 part sugar to 4 parts water solution.  It is not necessary for the water to be brought to a boil before adding sugar.  The nectar is ready after the sugar has been stirred in and fully dissolved.  Do not add color. Color is absolutely unnecessary and potentially harmful. When hummingbird feeding activity is slow, like it tends to be in early spring to mid-summer, make small amounts and avoid refrigerating large quantities.  Think in terms of making fresh nectar each week in small amounts until feeding activity becomes vigorous, like it does in the latter summer months.  This is when it makes sense to make larger batches and refrigerate extra nectar.  Remember, nectar in the feeder is only good for about 3 days in summer heat.  Fill your feeder according to the activity level and you will waste less nectar and reduce your maintenance on the feeder.  The peak time for hummingbird feeding activity typically starts mid-July and lasts through September, and even into October.

So, if you’ve been disappointed and concerned because you haven’t seen much of hummingbirds now is the time to make sure your feeders are clean and the nectar is fresh.  It’s going to get very busy!

Hummingbird Myths

Hummingbirds have "scouts".  Not really sure how this got started but likely because people would see an early arrival and then other hummers would eventually follow.  There is no way an adult male Ruby-throated hummingbird would actively help or encourage others to share "his" territory.  Everyone sees how territorial they are as they fight for the rights to a feeder.  It is believed an adult male can and will defend a territory of up to an acre.

Hummingbirds and Geese.  I haven't heard this one in a long time so hopefully it has gone away for good.  It was believed by some that hummingbirds would ride on the backs of larger birds, specifically geese, during migration.  This does not occur. 

Feeders must be taken down in the fall.  We still hear this one quite often.  People believe that hummingbirds will not migrate in the fall if feeders are left out.  Not so.  It is in their DNA to migrate.  Again, hummingbirds do not NEED sugar water, so why would an artificial food source keep them here?  If we had to take away all food sources to make them migrate we would also have to eliminate all of the various insects they feed on.  

 

 

 

Summer bird feeding challenges

It’s most definitely upon us.  The time of year when many of you are faced with challenges certain backyard visitors present. They can really test ones patience. I’m talking about Grackles and Starlings, Raccoons, Chipmunks, and Mountain Lions.  Well, maybe not Mountain Lions.

Your bird feeders are of great interest to all afore mentioned birds and animals largely due to this being the breeding season.  I did not mention squirrels because we deal with them every day.  The others are more of a seasonal issue.  One thing worth mentioning about squirrels is they are more likely to eat safflower during this time. We’ve already heard from a few of you that squirrels have decided to start eating safflower when previously they did not.  Usually it’s the young squirrels that eat safflower.  This too shall pass.

Adult Europian Starling

Adult Europian Starling

Boat-tailed Grackle

Boat-tailed Grackle

When Grackles and Starlings are on the nest they seek quick, easy food sources and will visit in droves bringing their babies as well.  We recommend a variety of strategies to lessen their impact:

  • Offer nothing but Safflower seed rather than sunflower or blends with shelled seeds, shelled peanuts, and fruit.  Safflower is smaller than sunflower and has a different shape, and a hard shell that Grackles and Starlings cannot crack open. 
  • We also suggest shutting down the feeders for a while, perhaps a week or two.  This can cause these sudden intruders to move along and be someone else’s problem.  Usually the Grackle/Starling pressure recedes by mid to late June when breeding is over.  The other birds you want will typically return to the feeders in no time.
  • Limit opportunities and any opportunities available should be difficult for a large bird like a grackle to use.  For instance, small bird only or caged type feeders.  Yes, this will also limit Cardinals but they would be happy to feed on whatever falls to the ground.  If you have a tube type feeder with straight perches consider cutting them in half.  They are usually made of aluminum and easy to cut.  Half a perch will present great difficulties for a Grackle and Starling but your small birds will use them easily.
  • Suet is a favorite food source during this time because it’s soft and easy to take large chunks.  Again, removing the food source for a week may cause the problems to move on.  Another thing to try is take note of the timing of their visits.  You can offer smaller amounts of food, like a third of a suet cake at a time, so your desired visitors have a consistent food source for part of the day. When the problem visitors show up there is little food remaining. 
  • Squirrel proof suet feeders are very effective at keeping squirrels out but not always the Grackles.  Only the largest Squirrel proof suet feeders provide enough distance between the food source and the outer cage to stop Grackles and Starlings.

Next to Grackles and Starlings there’s a tie for most complaints between Raccoons and Chipmunks.  Raccoons are expert climbers, they have great dexterity in their paws, which are really like hands, they can grow to be quite large, and their strength and brain power far exceeds that of a squirrel.  Many of you find your feeders on the ground in the mornings damaged with squirrels gathered round feasting on the exposed seed.  This is a sure sign that a raccoon has been working the night shift as they are mostly nocturnal.  They will take feeders off hooks and hangers with ease, take the lids off and eat until they are satisfied.  Here are some suggestions for reducing raccoon problems:

  • Bring in feeders at night that are accessible to raccoons.  It may take a few weeks to condition the raccoon to not to show up.  After a few weeks try leaving a feeder out one night to see if they have gotten the idea that no food would be available.  Continue taking the feeder in if you see evidence they’ve been there.
  • The “limited amount” strategy works well here, too.  If it’s suet they are getting only put a third or half a cake in the feeder. By nightfall when the raccoon shows up there would be little if anything left.   
  • Raccoon baffles for pole systems, which are much larger than squirrel baffles, are very effective.  Follow directions and you will have success.  A squirrel baffle will not likely stop a motivated raccoon. 
  • This is not my favorite strategy but some people will make food available in places away from feeders.  They might offer table scraps, corn, or cat food to satisfy the raccoons.  I see evidence of raccoons getting in my compost pile where I put everything from coffee grounds to old fruit and vegetable scraps. In my opinion this strategy just encourages their desire to visit.

Chipmunks are challenging in that they can squeeze through caged squirrel proof feeders and they are usually not heavy enough to activate a weight activated feeder.  And they like safflower.  However, any squirrel baffle will stop them cold. 

Be patient.  We need to try and be tolerant of wildlife even when they are pesky. 

Spring migration

Cerulean Warbler

Cerulean Warbler

Spring migration is in full swing which means there will be a lot of interesting birds to see if you spend a little time looking around your yard, or at any of our wonderful parks and green ways. Get your binoculars out and your ears ready because the neo-tropical migrants are passing through or arriving in middle Tennessee everyday on the way to their summer breeding areas.  Warblers, Vireos, Tanagers, Swallows, Hummingbirds, and many other species are there for the viewing if you try.  Early in the morning, between 6 am and 10 am are best to see some of the mentioned birds because many of them migrate at night then settle down in the mornings to feed and rest.

The first Ruby-throated hummingbirds to arrive or pass through TN are just about a week away. Usually one, maybe two hummingbird feeders at this time of year is enough.  Don’t bother filling your feeder to full capacity at this time as the feeders are of little interest to them this early.  

At your feeders expect to see the always popular Rose-breasted Grosbeaks and Indigo Buntings.  Of course American Goldfinches are here in abundance year round but are now beginning to put on their bright yellow spring plumage.

For daily sightings reports of migrating birds you may want to subscribe to TN bird list, or visit Tennessee Birding on Facebook.

Richard Connors spring birdsong workshop is open for enrollment.

This class is designed for those who have had a beginning class, or already have some basic knowledge of our birds, although beginners will be welcome. Emphasis will be on bird identification by song, "birding by ear", as well as by sight. Participants will be trained for finding and identifying birds by song, especially those colorful songsters the wood warblers, some of whom are seasonal migrants and only stay for a brief visit. Radnor Lake is the perfect place to find and study songbirds, and we will take advantage of this with instructor-led bird walks specifically for this class.

Class dates: TUESDAYS April 10, 17, 24, & May 1, 8, & 15  

First meeting:  TUESDAY April 10, from 10AM – 12:00 noon, in the visitor center meeting room Radnor Lake State Natural Area, 1160 Otter Creek Rd., Nashville. Subsequent Tuesdays will begin with early bird walk.

Bird walks before class starting Tuesday April 17, begins at 7:30 AM. With classroom study from 10 AM to 12 Noon. The morning walks will continue thru May 15, with the last class room session May 8th.

There is a $75 fee for this 6-week class, with a portion of the fee going to Friends of Radnor Lake S.N.A.  Class size limited to 20 participants.

CONTACT RICHARD TO REGISTER for the class, not the park.  email Rconnorsphoto@aol.com, Home/office 615 832-0521, or mobile 615 330-7142 (call or text)

See this page for more information: http://www.pbase.com/rconnorsnaturephoto/bird_class_2018

Feeding bluebirds

Everybody would like to attract Bluebirds.  The fact is it is not difficult to attract Bluebirds and the single best way to do that is with a couple of nest boxes placed in good locations as we pointed out in last week’s blog.  We want to help you attract Bluebirds and enjoy the entire experience from courtship to nest building, egg laying to chick development, and finally fledging.

Besides the nest boxes planting native berry producing trees and shrubs, like Dogwood and Beautyberry for example, have a consistent source of water, and offering an appealing food source like live mealworms are things that will help.  Eastern Bluebirds feed primarily on insects and berries’ so feeding them is different than the way we feed other birds.  At The Wood Thrush Shop we have a great deal of experience feeding Bluebirds and would like to pass on our tips and tricks to help you have success and enjoy the activity as much as we do. 

In the spring when Bluebirds begin checking out a nest-box is the best time to begin offering the live mealworms.  Why?  Their need for nest boxes takes precedence during the breeding season and will bring them to your yard more predictably and reliably, and potentially for several months.  Feeding them then becomes a lot easier.    

Caged type bluebird feeders help discourage larger birds from accessing mealworms.

Caged type bluebird feeders help discourage larger birds from accessing mealworms.

We stock lots of simple tray and dish options that work well for feeding bluebirds.

We stock lots of simple tray and dish options that work well for feeding bluebirds.

These small glass dish type feeders come in a veriety of styles such as hanging, garden stake, and pole mount.

These small glass dish type feeders come in a veriety of styles such as hanging, garden stake, and pole mount.

Once you see Bluebirds showing interest in a nest box be prepared to offer mealworms.  The type of feeder to use is really not very important.  My choice of feeder is a small clay dish which is placed on a large rock which is easily seen from the top of the nest-box, just a few feet away.  Platform type feeders tend to work very well, too.

Look for an opportunity to walk out to the feeder and offer a small amount of worms, maybe a dozen.  THIS IS IMPORTANT!  The key is to make sure the Bluebirds are there to see you make the offering. 

After placing the worms in the feeder walk away and watch.  In most cases you will have immediate success.  They fly right down to the dish and gobble them up.  I like to repeat this after they consume the first offering just to reinforce the process.  I repeat this little scene every time the opportunity arises over the course of the next few days or weeks.  Usually 4 or 5 times are enough for the Bluebirds to catch on to what you are doing.  If during that first offering they fly away do not leave the mealworms there.  The longer the worms are there the greater the likelihood that other birds, like Robins, Mockingbirds, or Starlings see them.  If they catch on to this offering feeding the Bluebirds will then become almost impossible, not to mention possibly creating enough conflict the Bluebirds may look elsewhere to nest. 

Repeated successful feedings will help get you bluebirds on a "feeding schedule".

Repeated successful feedings will help get you bluebirds on a "feeding schedule".

When bluebirds show interest in your nesting box is the best time to offer food.

So, keep the offerings minimal until the Bluebirds really catch on.  Then you can increase the amounts of mealworms being offered as they raise their young.  Soon they will be waiting for you, or even seeking you out in your yard as I’ve experienced in the past.

TIPS For Feeding Bluebirds:

Ø  Offering mealworms when Bluebirds are not present is a sure way to feed a lot of other birds.  Wait until you see them before offering.

Ø  If birds that you do not want are getting the mealworms suspend offering the mealworms for a few days or more and start over using the suggestions we’ve outlined.

Ø  Bluebirds may partake of other foods like dried mealworms, suet, Bluebird nuggets (a type of suet), raisins, blueberries, chopped apple and grape.  Experiment and let us know your results.

Ø  Location is important.  Don’t try to feed them near birdfeeders or a place that gets a lot of bird traffic.  Feeding them close to their chosen nest box is easiest but do make sure you don’t let other birds in on the mealworms treat.  Some birds may become territorial over the food source and create conflict at the Bluebird box. 

Ø  Some people employ the method of making a sound, like whistling, while they offer the worms.  Like Pavlov’s dogs, Bluebirds will key in on the sound and associate that with the treat about to be given them.  I’m convinced that the Bluebirds we fed behind the store one year became familiar with the sound and sight of my truck arriving in the morning.  As soon as I would get out of the truck they would be landing on nearby perches waiting for me to enter the store and bring out worms.

Remember, Bluebirds will not become dependent on the mealworms but will simply take advantage while they are offered.  You can suspend feeding Bluebirds any time and not worry that they will starve.